In 1947, Jean Desprez introduced his only unisex fragrance—40 Amour, also known as 40 Love—a crisp and invigorating fougère that captured the fresh, sunlit atmosphere of the tennis court. The name itself, 40 Love, is a clever nod to tennis scoring, where "40–love" signifies one player nearing victory while the opponent has yet to score. More than just a sports reference, the name evokes a sense of energy, optimism, and flirtation—the thrilling tension of being just a point away from winning both the match and, perhaps, someone's heart.
Desprez took inspiration from the image of the "tennisman", the effortlessly elegant French sportsman who embodied virility, discipline, and a kind of casual glamour. Post-war France in the late 1940s was entering a period of renewed hope and vitality. The era, known historically as the postwar recovery period, saw a return to leisure, luxury, and personal grooming, particularly as fashion houses like Dior redefined femininity with the New Look, and perfumers returned to bolder compositions after years of wartime austerity. In this climate, 40 Love emerged not only as a novel unisex scent, but as a lifestyle statement—a fragrance that suggested both athletic elegance and a clean sensuality suited to the optimistic spirit of the times.
The scent itself was built on the fougère structure, traditionally associated with masculine perfumery, but softened and brightened here for broader appeal. It opened with a brisk and clear blend of essential oils—bergamot bringing sharp citrus clarity, marjoram (marjolaine) lending a peppery, herbal warmth, and gardenia softening the composition with a creamy floral note. These top notes created a sense of open air and movement, like the gust of wind as a ball sails across the net.
