Votre Main (1939)

Votre Main by Jean Desprez was launched in 1939, a moment in time teetering on the edge of global upheaval. The name, French for “Your Hand” (pronounced "voh-truh man"), is both romantic and intimate, evoking the chivalrous gesture of a man reaching to gently kiss a woman’s hand—a scene imbued with grace, tradition, and flirtation. The phrase itself comes from a popular French song of the time, “Votre Main, Madame,” adding another layer of cultural resonance. This choice of name wasn’t merely poetic; it was deliberate. Desprez, known for his layered storytelling through perfume, chose a title that conveyed invitation, courtship, and sensual proximity—an elegant metaphor for the intimacy of perfume worn close to the skin.

Launched on the eve of World War II, Votre Main emerged during what is now remembered as the tail end of the Art Deco era and the dawn of wartime austerity. Fashion was still glamorous in Paris in 1939, but silhouettes were beginning to soften from the sharp geometrics of the 1930s. Perfume, too, was in a transitional phase—moving away from the opulence of the 1920s and into more restrained, romantic compositions. Against this backdrop, Desprez’s Votre Main felt timely: a fragrance that whispered rather than shouted, offering a nuanced interplay of spicy, fruity, and woody elements that invited close exploration rather than overt drama.

Women of the late 1930s, balancing both uncertainty and sophistication, might have seen Votre Main as a symbol of longing and elegance—a scent of restraint with a secret, perhaps a way to carry a sense of romance into a world rapidly becoming less certain. In a market where aldehydic florals and heavy orientals were still dominant, Votre Main stood out with its subtle complexity. Described in contemporary ads as “subtle” and “fruity,” it was positioned as both refined and modern. Its structure—a spicy floral layered over woody base notes—offered warmth and a touch of sweetness, suggesting the soft clasp of a gloved hand, the faint aroma left on skin after a dance, or the tender gesture of affection that lingers in memory.

In scent, Votre Main could be imagined as a fragrant interpretation of a private moment: warm and inviting with a glimmer of spice to hint at something unspoken. It may not have been the boldest scent of its time, but that was precisely the point. It was romantic, dignified, and quietly unforgettable—a fragrant expression of connection in an uncertain world.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Votre Main by Jean Desprez is classified as a spicy floral woody fragrance for women. It was described in old ads as "subtle, fruity".

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot zest, Italian orange zest, Chilean plum, spices, Provencal honey, Peruvian heliotrope 
• Middle notes: Grasse rose, Riviera jasmine, Indian carnation, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Chinese gardenia, Moroccan orange blossom, Tuscan violet
• Base notes: Balkans oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Tahitian vanilla, Tibetan musk, Spanish labdanum, Java vetiver, Siam benzoin

Scent Profile:

Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Votre Main from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like. 

At first contact with Votre Main, a few golden drops pressed into the warmth of the skin bloom like sunlight on a silk scarf. The initial impression is radiant and tender: Calabrian bergamot zest sparkles with citrusy vivacity, but with a refined softness typical of southern Italian oils—less sharp than their Sicilian counterparts, with a rounded sweetness. Italian orange zest follows suit, deeper and juicier, reminiscent of candied peels. 

The Chilean plum note is lush and wine-dark, slightly fermented in character, adding a nuanced richness that feels like fruit preserved in syrup and spices. That spice—oh, the spice!—does not dominate but laces itself gently through the composition: cinnamon, clove, coriander, pepper, and nutmeg intermingle like spices brought home in lacquered boxes from faraway ports, lending warmth, curiosity, and a sense of global elegance. A thread of Provencal honey winds through it all, golden and aromatic, its thyme-and-lavender edge making the opening feel sunlit and generous. A powdery whiff of Peruvian heliotrope closes the overture, sweet as sugared almonds, lightly almondic and softening the citrus-spice interplay into something plush.

As the perfume unfolds, the heart reveals a plush, painterly floral arrangement. There is the unmistakable velvet of Grasse rose—damp, red-petaled, and slightly jammy—woven into the satin threads of Riviera jasmine, whose heady, animalic nature is softened by the surrounding bouquet. Indian carnation adds a peppery lift, while Chinese gardenia and Moroccan orange blossom bring creamy, indolic intensity. The Nossi-Be ylang ylang, sourced from the island off Madagascar, adds a lush, banana-like creaminess with a slightly medicinal undercurrent, drawing the bouquet into a tropical, slightly narcotic direction. The Tuscan violet lends a soft green powderiness, evoking crushed leaves underfoot in an early spring garden. This heart is opulent and emotive, conjuring images of a silk fan fluttering at a soirée, of a velvet gown brushed with petals and perfume.

As Votre Main dries down, its depth becomes more apparent. The Balkan oakmoss introduces a cool, green shadow—velvety and forest-like—with a mossy bitterness that grounds the sweetness. Mysore sandalwood, now nearly extinct in its original form, is here in full, creamy splendor—rich, soft, and milky, with a woodsmoke smoothness that anchors the florals. The Tahitian vanilla is not a gourmand confection but a resinous, floral-tinged sweetness, linking arms with Siam benzoin and Spanish labdanum to build a balsamic warmth that radiates slowly like glowing embers. 

Tibetan musk (likely a mixture of natural tincture and a synthetic accord) lends a fuzzy, intimate animalic presence—sensual without being heavy. A fine wisp of ambergris winds through it like sea air drifting through silk curtains. The vetiver from Java, grassy and dry with a bitter smokiness, keeps the sweetness in check, while an earthy murmur of patchouli flickers just beneath the base, never dominant but adding just the right touch of complexity.

Wearing Votre Main is like stepping into an Edwardian salon where spice cabinets and flower arrangements sit side by side. It’s refined but not aloof, subtly fruity yet never playful. A fragrance of intimacy and complexity, it whispers rather than declares, and in doing so, becomes unforgettable.

This is an absolutely, fantastic vintage fragrance, easily moved into my top ten of all time, I cannot stop smelling the back of my hand, three hours later, I can still smell the smoldering spices. Move over Samsara, Votre Main might just have you beat with an overdose of Mysore sandalwood. This is an extremely hard to find perfume, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!

Votre Main by Jean Desprez was not only a perfume, but a poetic statement dressed in scent and glass. As early as 1946, it was among the trio of fragrances Desprez offered as “especially suitable for the festive season,” alongside Etourdissant and Jardanel. The Bermudian described them as exquisitely presented in crisp white with trimmings of Christmas red and green, suggesting that their packaging reflected the warmth and elegance of a holiday gift—luxurious, yes, but also personal, intimate. Prices ranged from $8.00 to $78.00, a wide span that allowed the perfume to be accessible in various forms while still signaling refinement. According to an inflation calculator, these prices equal to about $141.30 and $1,377.71 in 2025's money.

In the 1947 Book of Friendship, Jean Desprez advertised his small but elegant range—Votre Main, Etourdissant, Jardanel, Grande Dame, and a face powder, Poudre de Beauté—all certified to be imported from France. These perfumes were not outsourced or repackaged for export; rather, each bottle was filled, sealed, and boxed in France, echoing Desprez’s commitment to craftsmanship and integrity. He positioned himself not simply as a perfumer, but as a custodian of French artistry.

One of the most enchanting interpretations of Votre Main comes from L’Amour de l’art in 1950, where the perfume is described as a “hand immobilized on the clavier while the other hands you a rose.” This image is not metaphorical alone—it was literalized in the design of the bottle. Sculpted by Leon Leyritz, close friend and artistic collaborator of composer Maurice Ravel, the flacon was modeled as a porcelain hand, delicate and feminine, its fingers gently clasping a flower. The image merges sound, scent, and touch—a tribute to beauty in all its forms.

The perfume’s structure mirrored its visual metaphor. As L’Amour de l’art noted, it was a “fruity wood mixture,” anchored by notes of orange zest and ripe plum, softened and rounded by the green, dusky velvet of oakmoss. These are “extreme notes,” it said—vivid and distinctive—but they are “smoothed with boldness,” suggesting a tension between drama and elegance, which the base resolved with composure.

L’Atlantique in 1952 expanded on the name’s origin. Votre Main, meaning “your hand” in French, was drawn from a popular French song titled “Votre Main, Madame.” It’s a phrase that evokes courtesy, courtship, and the subtle drama of a gesture—perhaps the beginning of a dance, or the offering of affection. Fittingly, the bottle was shaped like a woman’s porcelain hand, delicately painted in red and green accents, a small flower caught at her fingertips. It was charming and whimsical, yet undeniably elegant.

Desprez even designed a stronger counterpoint—Escarmouche, or “Skirmish”—packaged in the form of a crystal dagger with a Sevres porcelain handle. Where Votre Main offered a hand, Escarmouche offered a weapon. These theatrical flourishes were a hallmark of Desprez’s storytelling approach to perfumery, where the scent was only part of the experience.

Votre Main lived in the space between music, gesture, and memory—refined, but intimate. The design and the scent worked in concert, evoking not just the romance of its era but the artistry of one man’s vision of perfume as a complete aesthetic language.

Bottles:

Votre Main by Jean Desprez was presented in one of the most artistically enchanting perfume flacons of the 20th century—an object that blurred the line between bottle and sculpture. Crafted from delicate white Sèvres porcelain, the bottle was designed by the French sculptor Léon Leyritz, whose work often bridged fine art and functional form. This bottle was more than decorative packaging—it was a tribute. Inspired by the elegant hand of Jean Desprez’s grandmother, a noted pianist, the flacon immortalized her grace in porcelain, capturing the fleeting gestures of femininity and refinement in lasting form.

The design itself is deeply expressive. A feminine hand, sculpted in fine white porcelain, is poised mid-gesture and holds a pink rose in full bloom at the fingertips. This tender image evokes both a personal memory and a universal symbol of romantic offering. The arm, wrist, and hand are adorned with meandering porcelain vines, climbing upward in soft arcs, each decorated with dimensional pink roses that were meticulously hand-formed and applied—no two bottles exactly alike. The craftsmanship echoes the old-world French tradition of luxury object-making, where artisanship, beauty, and symbolism are inseparable.

This bottle was offered in three sizes to suit different levels of indulgence: a 3.14 inch (8 cm) miniature, a 6.69 inch (17 cm) mid-size, and a 9.84 inch (25 cm) full-sized showpiece. Each size maintained the exquisite detail of the original design, making even the smallest version a treasure. Today, these Sevres porcelain hands are highly collectible, not only because of their beauty and rarity but because they so perfectly encapsulate the spirit of Desprez’s perfumes—intimate, emotive, and crafted with the kind of care that transcends time. They remain a testament to the house’s artistic ambition and to the era’s deep belief in the emotional power of scent and object combined.

Modele Pratique: 

During the war years, when material shortages and economic constraints made opulence difficult to sustain, Jean Desprez adapted by offering his perfumes in what he called the Modèle Pratique—or “Practical Model.” This alternate bottle design was a square French crystal flacon, clean-lined and elegantly minimal, fitted with a ground glass stopper. Though less elaborate than Desprez’s signature sculptural presentations, this model retained an undeniable sense of refinement and restraint, speaking to the enduring commitment to quality even during times of hardship. The same flacon was used across several of his early perfumes—Votre Main, Etourdissant, Jardanel, and Grande Dame—making it a unifying vessel for his core collection during a tumultuous period.

Printed on the base of the accompanying box was a firm declaration of authorship and protection: “All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law.” This message from 17, rue de la Paix, Desprez’s headquarters in Paris, was both practical and a statement of pride. Even in simplified packaging, he maintained the essence of his artistic vision.

A particularly thoughtful detail was the paper label used on the Votre Main Modèle Pratique bottle, which featured an illustration of the luxurious Sèvres porcelain hand flacon. This clever nod allowed customers to imagine the grander presentation, even when the wartime bottle was more utilitarian. It was a gesture of continuity—linking practicality with the poetic storytelling that defined Desprez’s brand.

According to Suzanne Wolfe, the company's Paris attorney, Desprez often drew inspiration from his habitual visits to the Palace of Versailles each autumn, where he wandered the galleries and gardens, absorbing the visual richness of French art and history. He was equally known to frequent the Sèvres Porcelain Museum, where the refinement of craftsmanship left an indelible impression on his creative mind. Wolfe noted that Desprez often reproduced elements of artworks he admired for his holiday cards—and very likely, the same practice inspired the visuals he used on his perfume labels. In this way, even the most “practical” of his bottles still bore the imprint of Versailles—its elegance, heritage, and sense of timeless splendor.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In a legal decision made on December 10, 1947, the U.S. Trademark Office refused to let Jean Desprez of Paris, France register the name "Votre Main" as a trademark for his perfumes and rouges (makeup). The refusal was based on the fact that there was already a registered trademark called "Votre Beauté" used for a wide range of cosmetics and toiletry products.

The decision stated that since both trademarks are being used for similar types of products (beauty and personal care items), and the names are similar in sound and meaning, there’s a strong chance that people could get confused and mistakenly think the two brands are related or come from the same company.

Even though Jean Desprez had submitted written permission from the company that owned the “Votre Beauté” trademark, the court said that this permission didn’t matter. The main concern was still the potential for confusion among consumers.

In short: Jean Desprez wasn’t allowed to register "Votre Main" because it was too close to "Votre Beauté," and customers might not be able to tell them apart.

Votre Main by Jean Desprez, launched in 1939, was one of the house's earliest and most poetic creations. The name, meaning "Your Hand" in French, was drawn from a popular romantic French song of the time, "Votre Main, Madame," lending the fragrance a tender and graceful air, perfectly in line with the emotional tone of the pre-war era. Released on the eve of World War II, Votre Main entered the market at a time when perfumery served as a powerful emotional escape—a touch of elegance and femininity amidst growing uncertainty.

Despite the onset of war shortly after its debut, Votre Main managed to remain in production through the 1940s and was still being advertised and sold as late as 1951. However, like many luxury goods affected by postwar economic conditions and shifting market priorities, the perfume was eventually discontinued. The exact date of discontinuation remains unclear, but its presence into the early 1950s suggests it had a lasting appeal, likely due to its sentimental name, refined floral-woody composition, and the prestige associated with the Jean Desprez label.

Today, Votre Main is remembered not only for its elegant fragrance but also for its stunning presentation, most notably the hand-shaped Sèvres porcelain bottle. Its continued availability into the early 1950s reflects both the resilience of the Jean Desprez brand and the enduring appeal of classic French perfumery during a time of transformation in global fashion and cosmetics.