Etourdissant (1939)

Etourdissant by Jean Desprez was launched in 1939, a time of profound social and political change as the world edged toward the upheaval of World War II. The name “Etourdissant” is a French word meaning "astounding," “dazzling” or “stunning,” pronounced roughly as "ay-toor-dee-san". This evocative word conjures images of brightness, excitement, and a captivating allure—feelings that Jean Desprez sought to capture in this fragrance. It evokes the sensation of being swept away by something electrifying and unforgettable, perfectly aligning with the perfume’s intended impact.

The late 1930s was a period marked by elegance tempered by looming uncertainty. Fashion trends favored sophisticated yet practical styles, with tailored silhouettes and luxurious fabrics, reflecting a desire for refinement even as the world braced for conflict. In perfumery, the chypre family remained immensely popular, celebrated for its complex blend of fresh, floral, and mossy notes. Against this backdrop, Etourdissant positioned itself as a “startling” floral chypre—both classic and bold.

Women of the time, navigating a balance between grace and resilience, would have been drawn to a fragrance named Etourdissant as it promised an aura of confidence and magnetic charm. It spoke to those who wished to leave a memorable impression despite uncertain times. The scent itself unfolds with an invigorating burst of green galbanum, whose resinous freshness stands out distinctly. This is enhanced by sparkling aldehydes that lend a shimmering brightness and a crisp citrus opening, creating an immediate sense of vibrancy.

At the heart, the perfume softens into a lush bouquet of Bulgarian rose and jasmine—two pillars of classic French perfumery known for their rich, velvety floral character. These florals add elegance and femininity, balanced by the green sharpness of the opening notes. The dry-down settles into a quintessential chypre base—powdery and mossy, with a touch of earthy sophistication that lingers on the skin. This base anchors the fragrance firmly in tradition while enhancing its timeless appeal.

In the context of the market at the time, Etourdissant both aligned with and stood out among its peers. Chypres were widely favored, but Jean Desprez’s careful balancing of startling freshness and classic floral richness gave Etourdissant a unique identity. Its name alone set expectations for an impactful experience, and its composition delivered with a refined yet invigorating character that made it memorable in an era rich with elegant fragrances.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Etourdissant by Jean Desprez is classified as a classic floral chypre fragrance for women, it was described as "startling". It begins with green note of galbanum, sparkling aldehydes and citrus, followed by a floral heart of Bulgarian rose and jasmine, resting on a classic mossy, powdery chypre base.

• Top notes: Persian galbanum, aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, Spanish limette, Bourbon geranium
• Middle notes: Arabian jasmine, Bulgarian rose, spices, Tunisian orange blossom, Hungarian clary sage, Florentine orris, Somalian opoponax
• Base notes: Sumatran styrax, Mexican vanilla, Sudanese myrrh, Java vetiver, Tibetan musk, Tyrolean oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Spanish labdanum, Malaysian patchouli, Abyssinian civet, ambergris

Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Etourdissant from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like. 

Receiving this vintage sample of Etourdissant by Jean Desprez is like uncovering a hidden treasure from the golden era of perfumery. As I applied the deep golden-yellow liquid to my skin, the fragrance immediately unveiled a complex and captivating narrative. The opening is both crisp and smoky, where sparkling aldehydes dance brilliantly with the bright, fresh citrus of Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian mandarin, while a rare Spanish limette adds a subtle zest, offering a distinctive twist that elevates the top notes beyond the usual citrus blend. The Persian galbanum is particularly striking here—renowned for its resinous and intensely green character, it adds a sharp, vibrant edge reminiscent of crushed leaves, imbuing the scent with an invigorating freshness that is unmistakably alive.

As the initial brightness begins to settle, the heart reveals itself like a blossoming bouquet. The floral accord is rich and enveloping: Arabian jasmine exudes a creamy, intoxicating sweetness, harmonizing perfectly with the rich, velvety Bulgarian rose—celebrated worldwide for its deep, nuanced fragrance that is more complex and robust than roses from other regions. Accompanying these are delicate touches of orange blossom from Tunisia, with its honeyed, slightly green facets that add depth and freshness. 

Beneath the florals lies a subtle spice blend—cinnamon, dry coriander, nutmeg, and clove—that lends a warm, exotic character without overwhelming the bouquet. Clary sage from Hungary contributes an aromatic, slightly balsamic note, enhancing the herbaceous quality, while Florentine orris—derived from the root of the iris flower—is a precious, creamy ingredient adding a velvety softness and a subtle powdery nuance. The Somalian opoponax, a resin known for its sweet, balsamic warmth, quietly underpins the heart, weaving the florals and spices together with gentle richness.

The base of Etourdissant is a masterclass in chypre tradition, layered with luxurious depth and complexity. The Tyrolean oakmoss provides the signature mossy, slightly damp earthiness, distinguished by its high-quality regional character that offers a fresh yet robust green accord—far superior to less refined varieties. The soft, fuzzy texture of the oakmoss harmonizes with the resinous myrrh and the sweet, balsamic tones of both Styrax from Sumatra and labdanum sourced from Spain. Mexican vanilla lends a creamy sweetness that balances the more animalic and earthy facets, while the Sumatran styrax adds a rich, warm incense-like glow. Mysore sandalwood, prized for its rich, creamy, and woody aroma, forms a smooth, enveloping heartwood base that wraps the fragrance in a gentle warmth, a signature hallmark of quality in classic French perfumery.

Patchouli from Malaysia introduces an earthy, slightly spicy complexity that deepens the base, while Java vetiver brings a dry, smoky grassiness that contrasts elegantly with the creamy sandalwood. Animalic notes of natural musk and Abyssinian civet add an intimate, sensual depth, amplified by the presence of precious ambergris, which lends a soft, marine-like warmth and longevity to the entire composition. These elements work in harmony to create a timeless, sensual trail that is simultaneously powdery, earthy, and warmly balsamic—exemplifying the "startling" character described by early critics.

In Etourdissant, the interplay of high-quality natural ingredients with well-chosen synthetics such as aldehydes amplifies the freshness and projection, bringing out the vibrancy of the natural galbanum and citrus, while enhancing the powdery and mossy undertones to ensure longevity. The result is a classic floral chypre that feels both elegant and surprising—rich in tradition yet alive with unexpected facets—an enduring testament to Jean Desprez’s skill and artistry.

This is a drop dead, fantastic vintage fragrance, so very hard to find, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!

 

 

La Femme Chic, 1945, recommends Etourdissant by Jean Desprez especially for brunettes—highlighting its bold and rich character that complements darker hair with ease. The fragrance’s foundation on Russian leather and classic chypre accords creates a scent that develops quickly upon application and possesses impressive longevity. Its robust profile makes it ideal for morning walks through the Bois de Boulogne or for cooler weather, where its warm, enveloping qualities can truly shine.

The Bermudian (Volumes 17-18, 1946) highlights Etourdissant as one of Jean Desprez’s perfumes especially suited for the festive season. Alongside Votre Main and Jardanel, it was presented elegantly in white packaging adorned with Christmas red and green trimmings, available at a wide price range from $8.00 to $78.00—making it a desirable gift or luxury purchase for the holidays.

The Book of Friendship, 1947, notes that Jean Desprez perfumes—including Etourdissant, Votre Main, Jardanel, Grande Dame, and the Poudre de Beauté face powder—were proudly imported from France and carefully bottled, packaged, and sealed at the country of origin. This emphasis on authenticity and quality underscored the brand’s commitment to maintaining the prestige and integrity of its French heritage.

By 1950, L’Amour de l’art described Etourdissant as “stunning” and “extraordinary,” drawing attention to its unexpected depth and marvelous complexity. While primarily recognized as a chypre fragrance, it features a fairly strong note of gardenia and amber that eventually softens and fades into velvety mossy undertones, enriching the perfume with both floral elegance and classic chypre sophistication. This nuanced layering contributed to its enduring appeal and distinguished it from other fragrances of its era.

 

Bottles:

The fragrance was presented in a variety of bottles over the years, but undoubtedly the most striking is the exquisite Baccarat crystal flacon. This bottle is crafted to resemble a diamond faceted crystal shard, catching and reflecting light with every angle, embodying both luxury and artistry. Its sharp, multifaceted design evokes a sense of refined elegance and timeless beauty, making it a true collector’s treasure.

Adding to its uniqueness, this Baccarat crystal flacon was often displayed in a rare and delicate tripod stand made from translucent and green Lucite. The stand not only provided a stable and stylish base but also enhanced the overall visual appeal, creating a striking contrast between the sparkling crystal and the soft glow of the Lucite. This tripod stand is seldom found today, making bottles that still possess it especially prized among collectors and enthusiasts of fine perfume artistry.

Modele Pratique: The original bottle for Etourdissant was a square French crystal flacon fitted with a ground glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other early Jean Desprez perfumes: Grande Dame, Jardanel, and Votre Main. I believe this model was used during the war period as the expensive flacons were unattainable due to cost and supply restrictions. The base of the box reads "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."

The Modele Pratique bottle used for Etourdissant has a lovely paper label depicting the Baccarat crystal flacon in the shape of a faceted crystal shard. As you can see in the image on the label, the flacon rests inside of a tripod stand made up Lucite

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.